Photos by Aimi Chan
Body Boarder - Pedro Gomes
It was tuesday close lunch time , from nothing Pipe started to work , in less than 10 minutes the beach was full of body boarders and surfers , and even not being in good conditions and still tired from the trip , I couldn't hold my self , and I went out there too . Before get in I have to confess that I was really apprehensive , I couldn't relax at the first time . The current in the inside is the hell , it's like a river , and my legs after 2 months away from the beach and still feeling weak from the influenza was not helping me that much . But after over 20 years body boarding , I learned somethings , and with a hand from God , I could cross the river in the inside .
Outside there was really hard , the best body boarders in the world next to me , many locals , hard to find a wave ......but , after 30 minutes of waiting I finally made my first wave . No tube , no actions , just a scared ride . The second wave was a really small one , like head high , but from this time I started to feel comfortable . To take my third and last wave took some time , and after that I left , my muscles wasn't helping anymore .
Well in my second day in Hawaii , I had my first experience in Pipeline , and I Know that I can do much better out there , because that's why I came to here , to surf the best spot in the world , never mind how hard it is . Thank's for watch this blog , and soon as I can I will post some photos that I took already . Tchau .
My self before get in .